Morsel Musings: March 2024

Hey Everyone,

David here. I consistently find myself down food rabbit holes: a dish I’m testing, obsessively watching Reels about something I just ate, researching a new ingredient, etc. I don’t typically share a lot about what I find–useful or otherwise–which spares me from having conversations about silly, frustrating, or surprising experiences. For example, throughout each week in January and February I made at least 2 batches of fluffy focaccia per week. Underproving, forgetting to add salt, too much olive oil, too little, throughout each batch I had thoughts and emotions that only ever found themselves in my journal (sorry certain friends and fam!). I’m hoping Morsel Musings, a monthly newsletter about food and drink, will start new conversations as a place to share what I’ve found or am looking for next. I hope these morsels lead to more inspiration in meals sought or prepared and spark a conversation between us and the other culinary explorers in your life.

Each month I plan on inviting you down the rabbit hole with me, first with an opening insight into what’s happening in my kitchen followed by themed tidbits about food exploration, ingredient preparation, what I’ve found at the farmers’ market, and more culinary-focused content.

Share what's happening in your kitchen, the good, the bad, and the delicious, and as ever please feel free to reply directly with any thoughts or feedback!

-David

This is usually what I am cooking in my kitchen, though it may sometimes include things I experience outside as well (a new bar, a cooking class, etc.).

• Parmesan Rinds: These rinds (butts of what are normally used to grate cheese onto pastas, veggies, or other vehicles for consumption) historically end up in the trash/compost for me. I recently prepared a tortellini ossobuco dish that I wanted to serve in a rich parmesan sauce; alfredo was a potential starting point but I wanted a parmesan-based sauce that had more flavor depth and structure than the simply grated parm found in an alfredo. Blending and straining a “solid” ingredient is a good way to bring structure to a dish while also adding flavor. That dish ultimately got me thinking about how parmesan rinds can be used as a unique flavor enhancer elsewhere.
  • Current Take: Try placing them in stews, soups, and pasta sauces while they simmer and then removing before serving.

A larder is a place for storing food. For me the act of “larder-ing” means taking a few minutes here and there to prepare ingredients that can elevate any future dishes. Great dishes have layered flavor and I’ve found there’s no better place to keep these “layers” than on-hand in your larder.

• Pickling with a Twist: I love pickles. Sue me. I fancy a pickle garnish as a part of as many dishes as possible. It should then come as no surprise that when thinking about what to add to my larder pickles are usually top of mind. Keeping at least two pickled items in my larder has helped me find ways to add a seemingly random ingredient topper at the end of preparing a dish that tends to make it memorable. 
  • Current Take: I’ve been larder-ing two types of pickled shallots: one with champagne vinegar, thyme and peppercorns and another with star anise, balsamic vinegar, orange peels and fennel seeds. Let me know if you try these or have any tried & true favorites! 

What I am hearing, reading, seeing, or tasting.

• On Vegetables: On the topic of rabbit holes I was out at dinner recently and had a sunchokes dish over labneh and dates. I was floored at the depth of flavor and the different components of the dish, pushing me to rethink my approach to vegetables, from root to stem (I agree, very measured and rational response to a dish of sunchokes!). Jeremy Fox is a Michelin Star chef and the current chef at Rustic Canyon and Birdie G’s (both in Santa Monica). His first cookbook, On Vegetables, is opening up my mind on how to source, prepare, and sustainably use vegetables in a kitchen. I would highly recommend it to anyone looking for vegetable inspiration or any tips on how to prepare different types of vegetables.
• Bistro Na’s: Chef Tian brings the experience of Peking Duck to another level. Prior to serving the course Chef introduces himself and how he’ll present the dish. He then previews the duck before reappearing with multiple plates, including handmade pancakes, accoutrements, and a presentation on how to assemble. Hearing the details of each ingredient, the 48hr prep process, and tasting the shatteringly crisp skin made this one of most memorable dining experiences in recent memory (not to mention the incredible crispy shrimp and cod mapa tofu). If you end up here check out Submerry Bakery in the same San Gabriel shopping center.

Fresh or intriguing finds at local farmers’ markets.

• Chicory: It has recently started to “heat up” here in LA (I know, potentially months ahead of wherever you’re living), but the chicory at farmers’ markets is already hot! Things like endives, radicchio, etc. are compelling candidates for a salad or on a grill.

A big part of this newsletter is creating opportunities to have a conversation with people receiving it. Below are questions on my food brain and I’d love to hear your thoughts.

• If you are into beets (insert whatever bears, beets, Battlestar Galactica joke that just popped into your head), I would love to hear about a memorable dish/form of beets you have had. Something that can’t be beet… if you will…
• For those gluten eaters: what’s your go-to bread dip? What’s been the most surprising dip you loved?

P.S. - credit to a beloved former manager of mine for the inspiration behind this section’s title!